Saturday, March 10, 2012

a few words about zodiac clothing

dress rehearsal for zodiac landing
We had a packing list from Gohagan and we came close to following it, but not exactly. Let me say a few words about what we wore and why it worked for us. We stuck to the layers routine as instructed. But, we wore fewer layers and still got over heated quite a bit. Now, the thinking is that you will strip off layers if needed, but in reality you can't. Not when the big layers are all on top and they aren't going anywhere. And the under layers aren't going anywhere without privacy which you do not have once you leave the ship. So, you need to think hard about what you are going to wear, because once you are out there, that is what you are wearing!
So, the layers as instructed were 2 pair of socks, long underwear, top & bottom, jeans or trousers, flannel shirt or turtleneck sweater, a lightweight fleece jacket, scarf, earmuffs and/or hat, waterproof gloves or mittens (with or without glove liners), waterproof pants, knee-high rubber boots (one size too large, to accommodate 2 pairs and socks and tucked in pants). Pants tucked into boots, with waterproof pants outside boots and topped with ship-provided parka. Sunscreen on face (make sure you get under your chin!) and good sunglasses with a cord to keep them from being blown off. Small waterproof backpack. Walking sticks for balance.

Let's start with some practical thoughts. For most of us, the zodiac loadings and landings will require some contortionist moves that we don't ordinarily do and certainly not while wearing that many clothes! So, with flexibility in mind, here are my suggestions and what I had success with. I wore a sports-type bra for comfort and range of motion. I wore a thin pair of cotton socks first. Comfortable, roomy underpants. I preferred the silky long underwear like Cuddl Duds to the old style insulated cotton. I found both equally warm and both were about the same weight, but the silky kind were easier to move around in while the cotton texture stuck to the next layer and impeded movement. Your mileage may vary, but Clay and I both had a cotton pair and a silky high-tech pair and we both preferred the silky style better for ease of motion. I don't know what brand Clay had, but it wasn't Cuddl Duds, but that is the brand I had so I can recommend it or something like it. I pulled a pair of thick socks over the first thin pair and over the long underpants. For the next layer, I chose sweatpants instead of the recommendations. Two reasons, sweatpants are warmer and they give more which allows a better range of motion for those big steps and high leg moves I was talking about earlier. Last bottom layer is the waterproof pants. Now, I am a big fan of pockets and all my pants had pockets. It was too many pockets. It created unnecessary bulk. Once you put on the parka, you can't use any of those pant pockets anyway. If I could have gotten the sweatpants and waterproof pants without pockets, I would've. Just a tip. Clay went with jeans and he was fine with that choice as well. I believe men's jeans might be cut looser than women's jeans, so I stand by my sweat pants recommendation. On top, Clay and I both went way lighter than the suggestions and we still both got overheated and sweaty at times. I wore a thin cotton turtleneck and then the parka. Clay wore a long-sleeved cotton t-shirt and then the parka. I don't think either of us was ever too cold that way, but as I said we both did get sweaty under the parka from time to time, so I don't think either of us would suggest wearing extra layers under the parka. Keep that thing fastened up and you'll be plenty warm, if you get warm crack open some of the Velcro and zipper. Neither of us could find a way to wear a scarf with the high, Velcro-clad neck of the parka. We both wore woolly caps that covered our ears. I wore a earband also but kept it on my neck inside the parka collar except when I pulled it up to cover my lower face from the wind. We did wear sunscreen on our faces, ears and necks. (I got a small burned spot under my chin after the first outing! Don't miss any spots that the sun might reach!) We both had sunglasses that covered our regular glasses on cords to hold them if we removed them and also to keep them from blowing away. In the drugstore, when we found and tried on the sunglasses, they seemed like overkill. Mine even had vents around the edges that seemed unnecessary. They were perfect. Even in overcast, you need the extra UV protection, as well as keeping the cold and wind from sucking your eyeballs out. They did not impair our vision at all and while the cords seemed bothersome, in reality they were very helpful. The gloves were bothersome. We both spent most of our time out with only the glove liners on. Yes, they got wet but they dried quickly between zodiac trips on the clothesline. We both had 2 pairs of heavy waterproof outer gloves or mittens and we could have done with only one each. The problem is that you will want to be able to take photos and you just can't do that well in a heavy pair of insulated waterproof gloves or mittens. Clay got a real pair of men's glove liners. We did not find any small enough for me, so I used a little pair of magic gloves and they worked just fine. In fact, again the Velcro on the parka is so overwhelming that you don't want to spend a lot of money on anything knit that you will wear with it because it will just chew it up! We both used waterproof packs. I used a regular small backpack for the walking sticks (another story!) and for spare batteries and memory cards. Clay used a small stringpack that he tied in front to his life vest for his extra lenses. We both put cameras in packs when the water looked especially lively and splashy for zodiac rides! As to the walking sticks, I found a lightweight, collapsible pair and took them along. I took them out on the first landing and just found that I wasn't comfortable with them. They were just one more thing to have to handle whether in the pack or out and I left them behind after that. Now, a lot of people were using them religiously so perhaps they found them useful. But, for me, I think I did fine without them. I found them cumbersome and annoying and preferred to struggle for balance without them. As for waterproof pants, I preferred mine, but I had more trouble with them than Clay had with his. Mine had zipped vents at the elastic bottom, this meant they would go over the boots easily enough, but turning basically upside down in the Main Lounge was a nightmare. We always walked to and from the marina loading area in socks, to keep the ship clean. We were instructed to hand carry our boots, parkas, and life vests to the loading area and finish dressing there. Clay would just pull his wide pant legs up and pull on his boots and he was done. Sometimes his legs stayed down and sometimes they didn't. That drift bothered me. I was worried about water getting above and in his boot, which never happened! Mine had legs zippered with elastic bottoms to keep them securely in place and no way water could get in, but I did need Clay's help to zip them up. Otherwise, I would start out dizzy from turning upside down to get the zippers wrestled down! Both of us had just the thin kind, like golfers use, I believe. That was enough. Which leaves us, I believe with only boots. You spend a lot more time walking, hiking, standing around than you would imagine, at least we did! The good news is that we got cheap boots that had a nice warm and supportive felt foot bed and they worked fine. The bad news is that you are still slogging about in bigass boots one size too big! These are the actual boots we used. We went to Tractor Supply Company and they actually had a good range and selection to choose from. I have small feet and so we had thought it would be more of a challenge. But, we both wound up with the same boots in sizes that worked. I found that the men's rather than women's or children's sizes worked best for me because of having to get the thick socks and pants tucked inside as well. I wound up with a men's size 5 and Clay with a men's size 11. I can recommend these exact boots which I believe we paid about $24 for each pair. We did try on and see the over $100 boots and I have to say that the people wearing them did not seem to be any better off than we were. I think that covers my zodiac wear tutorial!

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Monday, February 20, 2012

Sunrise 8:36    Sunset 23:54        Morning -2°\28.4F            Afternoon 0°\32F      Clear

Photos

Still crossing the Drake Passage. Iceberg watch is on. Mr. Chen won the bottle of champagne for finding it right before our first land, Smith Island of the South Shetland Islands.

Then, we sailed between very snowy Smith Island and I believe, Low Island.

Our iceberg was a really special and huge one. The Captain made a circumnavigation of our first iceberg, so everyone could be sure to get lots of photos. See for yourself! It was so huge and such an interesting, complicated and beautiful shape that Clay took loads of fantastic photos.

We had dinner tonight with some people who were one deck higher, on 4 and they had their door blown open the first night of the crossing and got sea water in their cabin. They had also been on the first flight so they were very sleep deprived in addition to sea sick.  We have been pretty lucky. Here's hoping we get that promised Drake Lake on the way back. One of the lecturers said this was his 8th crossing and his 3rd roughest. It was rough by any standard, though the Captain is quick to remind us it could have been worse. Not knowing that Clay had shot a video of the Drake Passage yesterday, I made one today. I have to apologize now for having no sound on any of my videos, since it is an old camera, we haven’t worried about why it did not record sound.

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Sunday, February 19, 2012

Sunrise 9:21   Sunset 00:24         Morning 3°\37.4F         Afternoon 2°\35.6F       Clear

The stats at the beginning of each entry are from our daily newsletter and may or may not be accurate!

At 9:30am, there was an hour and a half long Mandatory Briefing for everyone who intended to go ashore in Antarctica. Yeah, that was all of us. We had to sign in. There was only about 5 minutes of real information imparted and they had mailed it to us in a brochure 30 days prior to departure. Basically, don't take anything, don't leave anything, be respectful of the environment and the landscape. Later there was a mandatory vacuuming session for each zodiac boarding group. We are black and will do the first landing. I just wasn’t up for it and Clay took all of our old gear to vacuum off errant spores and seeds so we won’t contaminate Antarctica and he signed for us both. You did not have to vacuum anything that you had gotten new for the trip, only already used stuff. So, it wasn’t a big pile because we had bought a lot of new gear for the trip.

Crossing the Drake Passage! It was ugly. I kept myself mostly knocked out with Dramamine every 4 hours. Clay went to breakfast, lunch and dinner alone.


The clear seas the Captain was expecting did not appear, instead we encountered what the Captain called unusual, large swells out of the south as part of another front. It was ugly. I kept myself mostly knocked out with Dramamine every 4 hours.

Clay only took 2 photos and a video of the Drake Passage waterway itself today. I know the ship had all the big, metal outer doors latched with signs up stating the outer decks were closed during most of the crossing, but since we all had balconies...

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Sunrise 6:08am             Sunset 9:24pm 

We were up before the alarm again this morning. We were up by 4:30am, downstairs by 5:15am and on the bus by 6:10am. The airport was a zoo, reminiscent of Saigon! Crazy.  We were denied group boarding and it took all the way past boarding time to get to the gate and immediately board buses for the jet. It was an MD80 and we lucked into 2 seats on one side right over the wing. We had about 5 inches more leg room than we had on the international overnight flight if you can believe it, so that was good. The flight is to last 3.5 hours and I am typing this after they served a lemon cake, a cereal bar and a dulce de leche candy with a beverage.  Oh, the snack pack that we picked up this morning at the hotel had 2 long baguette sandwiches of white cheese slices and tomato slices, 2 muffins, 1 chocolate and 1 chocolate chip, 1 apple, 1 orange juice and 1 napkin. So we have been having little nibbles for hours now. We should arrive in Ushuaia in about an hour and a half. I am ready to get to Antarctica already!!

Our flight arrived on time and our luggage came right off.  It seems that about 10 pieces of luggage did not arrive though. Rather than sailing at 6pm as scheduled we sailed at 10pm after the arrival of the bags on the last, 9pm flight from BA. That was OK because it meant we did not have to eat dinner while sailing. The Captain thought we were in for smooth sailing after a front finished passing. It blew up while we were killing time in Ushuaia.  I don't remember all the artisanal chocolatiers before!

We boarded Le Boreal about 4:30pm in about gale force winds. They would come and get us about 10 at a time and help us get aboard. The wind was actually being blocked by an enormous Celebrity ship, so imagine how hard it would have been blowing with it it docked there.

We had a full mandatory life boat drill at 6pm. We all had to put on vests and report to the port or starboard side of the theater depending on which side our cabin is. After the briefing, we had to go out to the lifeboats and hear another set of instructions, and then we were sent back to our cabins to put the vests up.

Tonight is the Captain's Gala welcome reception and Gala Dinner. It is a fixed menu. This is the only night that Clay took his camera to a meal and took pictures of a meal. He didn't even photograph any buffets, or desserts that I recall. I know at least one breakfast he took his camera. You'll have to wait to see what he photographed, but it wasn't food! Dinner was at 7:45.

Parka distribution was from 9 to 10pm.  Then it was bedtime for us! They showed the film March of the Penguins with only music and no narration in the theater that night. I should just say up front that we never made it to any entertainment so I won't make any more notes about it.

Listed below are the Officers and staff of Le Boreal, as posted in the daily newsletter.

Captain Etienne Garcia
Chief Engineer Daniel Berthon
Staff Captain Olivier Marien
Ship's Physician Daniel Roure
Hotel Manager Philippe Touati
Executive Chef Eric Torralba
Cruise Director Beatrice Von Engelmann
Guest Relations Astrid Coppex
Chief Housekeeper Katia Pineau
Maitre D' Ludovic Andre
Bar Manager Mounir Sbihi

The deck 2 restaurant is called La Licorne. The deck 6 buffet restaurant is called La Boussole. I know that one, it means Compass Rose. I had to look up La Licorne and it is Unicorn. Weird!

La Boussole was closed for special group dinners most of the nights of our cruise. Plus because of the extra motion of the higher deck, we only ate up there for I think 1 breakfast and 2 lunches. I prefered the quieter atmosphere of La Licorne anyway and it was also buffet at breakfast and lunch.

Clay did sign up for an Internet wifi access plan onboard. It was almost useless. There was no signal in our cabin. In the lounges and it the atrium area, he could get a signal but it was still weak and very slow. Several people did tell us they were emailing out a picture a day along with some daily descriptions, but I have no idea how they were doing it. Clay was lucky to get to check and send out very brief email messages from time to time and that took all his minutes. Internet rates were 1H40=30€, 4H=60€, 16H=180€.

Listed below is the Expedition Team and our Lecturers from material they mailed to our home beforehand. I did not find a list after boarding... I do know that at least one of the Expedition Team is missing, and possibly more. There was a British woman named Helene something and she was not on our list. Otherwise, it seems correct, so here it goes.

Nicolas Dubreuil (Nico) Expedition Leader
Alain Bidart
Simon Cook
Didier Drouet
Patricia and Tim Hostiuck
Marcel Lichtenstein
Rick Price
Raphael Sane

Lecturers:
Professor Ben Orlove, Columbia
Dr. David Johnston, Duke
Dr. Ari Friedlaender, Duke
Professor Mark Moldwin, UCLA/UM
Professor Roberto Delgado, USC
Dr. Brian Luckman, UWO

Photos

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Friday February 17, 2012

Photos

We slept all night like babies. There was a big terrible thunderstorm through Buenos Aires last night. We didn't hear any complaints from the folks that bused out to the Tango Show last night though. The only negative comment we heard about it was how late they were out. I suspect the overnight flight had the most to do with that complaint though. We saw lots of tree branches down today though as remnants of last night's storm. I think it only made us sleep better.

We were up before the alarm clock went off this morning and off to buffet breakfast. I had cherries, coffee, a piece of bacon and 3 small pancakes with dulce de leche on them. I am not sure what Clay had but I remember a pile of bacon, sausages and potatoes. I think he wanted to get eggs cooked to order but there was a long line that was moving very slowly for that and it did not seem like a good idea, so he didn't. The meeting was one of our tour directors with a microphone hollering over restaurant noise in a room too small to seat us all. Kind of a circus. The good news is that they delivered letters to our rooms while we slept that contained all the information that we needed.

We got assigned the last flight of our group's 3 flights. Lucky! The first 2 groups will get a tour to the Park at the end of the world tomorrow in Ushuaia. Since we arrive in the afternoon, we get our same tour on departure day since we’ll be the last flight again. It also means that while the first 2 return flights come back to the BA hotel, we will just stay at the EZE airport. They tell us we can still store a bag at the hotel and that they will return it to us at the airport on the 27th. So, that is the plan. Other things she told us were to buy postcards in Ushuaia if we want to mail them from Antarctica. She says that the one post office we visit in Antarctica often sells out.  So that was good advice to have. The last advice was that we must have our checked luggage at or less than 33 pounds as it is strictly enforced. But that our carry-ons could actually number 2 and she had never had hers weighed. She claimed she routinely carried a 22"x14"x10" roll aboard plus her boots in the laundry bag from the hotel. Since we each have a much smaller and lighter carry-on bag plus my purse, we have put my boots in a laundry bag and that gives us 2 small bags each to carry on. She says that on the off chance we get some rule enforcers that we can just put our boots on and hand carry our shoes. That is the plan. Oh, they handed out cards for us to take to the H. Stern on the corner of the hotel to get a free charm. It has stars on 1 side and a bolas on the other. I asked and they said in Rio they have a silhouette of Sugarloaf. I will have to check mine when I get home! Well, I haven't found it, if I got one. I did find small boxes with 3 native stones in each instead of a charm from Rio. But, I did find one from Manaus and it has a lilypad!

Our checked bags have to be out in the hall tonight at 10pm. We are supposed to leave our stored bag just inside the room's door when we leave tomorrow. We are supposed to report to the Grand Hall at 5:15am for coffee, tea and to pick up our snack packs. We can eat the snack packs at the airport or on the plane, but they say if we arrive with any of the food at Ushuaia airport that it will be confiscated. They say the import of fresh food to Ushuaia is restricted. Who knew?

At 6am we depart the hotel on a bus. Our flight is AR1896 at 8:35 from EZE. We are scheduled to arrive in Ushuaia at 12:10pm. We embark Le Boreal at 4:30 pm and we set sail at 6pm.

Today at 9am we set out on about 5-6 buses on a city tour that lasted until 1pm. It drove us through BA’s barrios or neighborhoods. We went from the city center’s grand public buildings to the parks of Palermo, Plaza de Mayo, and Puerto Madero, to San Telmo and La Boca, we saw the Casa Rosada and Recoleta Cemetery. It was a speedy look at the high points and a good refresher for us. We got helado at Plaza de Mayo.

From 1-5 pm we had to provide our baggage plans and get our specialized tags. By 1:30 we went out to walk to the Teatro Colon. It was covered with scaffolding when we were here in 2008. The cost was $110Argentine per person for us as foreigners. It was about an hour-long guided tour.  It was as amazing as any other opera house tour we have ever done. Glorious!

On the walk back we stopped at another locally recommended restaurant called La Chacra. We still don't know what that word means.  Okay, I have Googled it since we got home and it means a small farm. I guess that makes sense. The place had a stuffed cow out front. Inside, the walls were lined with stuffed animals. There was a stuffed and saddled horse right inside the door. It had a little ladder behind it and it was very popular with the waiters and local diners and tourists alike. You know what is coming, right? It was very good food, similar though different than yesterday.  It was about twice the price.

On the walk back we found a synagogue. Interesting. What is the story with the live long and prosper, Vulcan hands?

We also stopped for another ice cream since we had passed a Freddo shop. That is what we had last time here. It was good. Better than this morning's.

We got back to the room about 5pm. We are in for the evening. Clay went down to use the treadmill again this evening. I am typing and packing. I will go for now. Tomorrow we sail! Antarctica here we come!

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Monday, March 5, 2012

Photos of Plaza Marriott room, Buenos Aires


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Clay took a bunch of photos of our room, 517; mostly of electrical stuff. I assume it was because it was something he was looking for before we left home. In any event, this post is purely for his room photos. We did take a couple of different electrical adapters (his chargers are dual-voltage, I believe). Also, I would note that the electricity in the room goes off if you are not in there with your key card in the slot by the door. There is a bidet in the bathroom, if that is important to you. There is a minibar hidden inside what looks like a chest of drawers. There is a small safe in the closet, as well as an iron and ironing board.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Photos

All flights were on time, and turbulence was a minimum. The long overnight flight in small seats yielded little good sleep though. They showed at least 3 movies after dinner. We watched The Ides of March. Then we tried to sleep. I woke up to see part of Moneyball. And I then watched most of Water for Elephants. I broke my headset plug getting out of my seat after the first movie! Clay gave me his because he was watching the BBC's Pride & Prejudice on the tablet! We had already seen all 3 movies anyway. It is almost impossible to type on this tablet, or with the rollup keyboard AND the MS WORD app does not have a spellchecker!!!  This really will be a lot of work now and later.

There were 30 or so people with our Gohagan group on our flight.  We got gathered up with our luggage right after we paid our $140 USD reciprocity fee and cleared customs/immigration. Our Argentine visas expire in 2022 and she told us that since our passports expire in 2018 that we can bring the expired one with the sticker and new passport to return later. That seems more than fair. We brought US cash for this but we could easily have used a credit card for this. With benefit of hindsight, we should have, but I had read too many horror stories of people arriving and the phone lines to process CC transactions were down. Gohagan gave us a letter on arrival at the hotel that states Le Boreal will take shipboard tips of $108-135 per person at the end of the cruise by either USD or Euros OR will charge a 5% service charge for using a credit card. We specifically brought along a Capital One credit card to pay those shipboard tips and would have paid the reciprocity fee with it, if Gohagan had shared that information earlier. Anyway, we went back to the same bank we stood in to get coins in 2008 across from H. Stern! We got local cash from the ATM there and will try to conserve our US cash for those tips. Just sayin'! It’s annoying, if they knew they should have said before we got to the hotel in BA.

We are staying at the Marriott Plaza hotel. It is directly at one corner of Plaza San Martin. It is in an impressive old building. We have an OK room, 517, with a view of an air shaft on the fifth floor! There is a reason that Trip Advisor reports either love or hate this place! It is really hot here in BA! We were exhausted and ready to take a nap but we forced ourselves to stay up and go out first to honor the local afternoon siesta tradition. We went to the hospitality desk and got directions and suggestions first. Clay wanted to replace the capybara leather wallet he bought here in 2008. We bought one at the second store we checked on the hostess' recommendation. He also got a new t-shirt. We found a supermercado and bought a big bottle of water. We found the big Quilmes beer there too! Ha!

Then we went to his lunch pick place El Federal but the locals didn't like it when we asked so we walked on around to their recommendation of Las Nazarenas. It was a great choice. We really liked it. We ate the fixed price 5 part lunch menu at 80A$ which is about $20US. It was good and a good price for more than enough food for us. Argentine beef is really different. I think it is fresh and feeds by grazing only. 

Brace yourselves for a load of photos now. Clay went nuts and got himself invited into the kitchen again! It really was a great lunch. The waiter even snatched Bob up off the table before we left and posed with him over my shoulder for Clay to take a photo! We highly recommend Las Nazarenas and the fixed price lunch was a great deal. Oh, and our meal was delivered to the table on a small portable charcoal brazier, where it was plated and served. Somehow, Clay managed to be either so agog or jetlagged that he failed to get a photo of the thing!

Earlier we drove by the opera house, Teatro Colon and it was not covered by scaffolding this time! Beautiful. We are really glad we had already seen everything else we wanted to see here before. We were too tired and miserable to enjoy today. We napped through the afternoon.  The bed here is incredible!  It is like a giant marshmallow covered in down comforter and pillows. Best nap since Istanbul, which coincidently was in 1999 after my last similar overseas coach flight! (The one in 2000 was the bulkhead aisle and was much more tolerable.) Hmmm...

Buenos Aires means fair wind as a port... Also did not realize before that BA is 2 hours ahead of East Coast USA time.

At 6-7pm Gohagan had a Cocktail reception introduction at the hotel meeting room. The first person we met there was Barbara Crews! She came over because she thought she recognized our faces. She shook my hand and I asked her if she knew who we were. She confessed she didn't and then I said Grin, an Airedale Terrier, and told her she used to be our vet in El Paso. She remembered then. Her husband Billy couldn't believe it. After meat and cheese canapés and beer, wine and juice, we decided to skip dinner and Clay would go use the hotel treadmill while I did chores.

Good choice since a massive thunderstorm is raging this evening. But, Gohagan's local hosts did arrange an evening out at a Tango show this evening. They must have gotten a lot of people to go because they said the bus would leave at 8pm.  Hopefully they didn’t get too wet. I think we heard it was $180pp this morning at the hospitality desk. That is about $40-50 more than we paid in '08 as I recall. But they had dinner with their show tonight so that seems reasonable. We heard that the food was fine and the show was very good. Clay's wallet price doubled since ‘08!  Anyway we'll be early to bed tonight.

Tomorrow Gohagan provides a breakfast buffet in the meeting room at 7am, a very important briefing at 8am (mandatory) and then there is a city tour at 9am.  It will visit the highlights and we will see them again. I'm sure it will all be new to Clay. Typing is such a nightmare right now that I will leave the tour description for captioning of Clay’s photos after we get home!!!  The tour ends at 1pm.  Then we are on our own until the flight to Ushuaia. Our airport greeter shared that as we are over 200 people that we are on 3 different flights on Saturday. Our hotel welcome letter NOTES that at least one group will have to depart for the airport by 4am on Saturday.  Presumably the mandatory breakfast tomorrow is where we learn our flight assignments, since the letter also states we have to provide baggage plans from 1-5pm tomorrow and pickup our color-coded luggage tags. Well, that is it from day one in BA. Goodnight from BA.

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